Caliente NV
Wow! Did I ever have a good sleep! Guess I’ll keep this Boulder View Inn motel on
my list of favorites. I actually slept
in and got up when I felt rested.
Breakfast was good….they hard hardboiled eggs that I combined with my
peanut butter toast and jelly with lotsa coffee….then I went back to the room
and started loading Sophia for todays’ ride.
While
loading Sophia my motel neighbor came over to compliment the bike. Craig and Cathy Carlson saw me last night
riding with Snoopy. Actually, they
noticed Snoopy first and decided to chat with me later. I didn’t write down
where their home state but I think it is Minnesota or Michigan. They’re serious hikers and are vacationing
the west’s National Parks. Check out
this pic Craig sent me from Antelope Canyon outside of Page AZ.
Then just a bit down the road and a right
turn onto UT-12 and I was on my way to riding event #14. And of course, within a few miles I came upon
a B&B or two….something to do with cowboys.
I think when I revisit this area I will google B&B’s and make
reservations. Right from the start I
could tell this was going to be a vista magnifico ride! It was like being on the Blue Ridge Pkwy
again, except this was all desert. I
just wanted to stop everywhere and take photos. Oh yeah…….that’s what I did do J.
Every
few miles there was a turnoff for a vista and I found myself stopping at almost
everyone. The views of the distant
canyons and the layered earth tone colors of the canyon walls were
beautiful. I was hoping the camera would
catch all the hues that my eye could see but I don’t think I was successful in
doing so. The initial ride out of Torrey
seemed to be through a lot of forested land as UT12 wound its way upward. I caught a number of photos of the
surrounding desert canyons however.
As
I continued climbing in altitude, the temperature kept dropping and the clouds
started to build up in the distance. I
decided to stop and don the raingear over the leathers to keep warm and to be
prepared for rain if it were to occur.
Later,
during a particular climb through more forested hills, there was a pull out on
the opposite side of the road. I crossed
over and parked the bike behind another car whose driver was standing at his
open door, with his hands and camera steadied on top of the door, taking a
photo of the distant canyons. Extracting
my camera from around my neck I scanned the hillsides and took a shot of Snoopy
with colorful trees in the background.
The fella by the car was looking at the bike so I greeted him. His name was Steve and he was from Germany so
I got a photo of him with Sophia and he took one for me.
Then
I decided that I better get a move on if I were to have lunch in Escalante,
finish riding UT12 to Bryce and then make it to Caliente NV for the night so I
can meet all the destination objectives for the next few days.
It
was only a few miles later that I reached the peak of the ride, at least I
hoped so. The clouds were building up
and I did get a little rain but nothing drenching….and no snow despite the
serious drop in temperature
Hopefully
from here on out it will be downhill and warmer.
The
ride down was indeed warming and a change in topography. The land, canyons, mountains became more
desert-ly….(is that a word??) and it got warm enough to remove the rain
gear. I reached another view point and
was blown away with the vastness of this Utah state!
I
reflected back to 1977 when, as a young Captain, I flew a formation cross
country with Major Don Henze in the lead, we were a pair of -28’s from MCAS El
Toro flying through these canyons and enjoying the views.
But I didn’t get to see and appreciate much
of the views back then because (a) we were looking down on the canyons, and (b)
I was dash -2, so my focus was on the lead following his turns, ascents and
descents. Seeing all of this from the
ground was far more awe inspiring.
After leaving the view point I finally reached the Escalante area…again, everywhere you looked there were vistas and new land formations. Snoopy wanted to meditate upon the expanse in front of him….he said it helped expand his horizons (just what I need, a dog going Buddhist). While he was doing that I enjoyed my views, caught some photos, then when to get the mutt….and he was nowhere to be found. As I looked closer in the grass I found him wanting to play hide and seek. So I played with him a little, caught him as he headed to another bush, and tickled him as I got him back on Sophia.
I
came across a section of road a few miles later that was very unique, it actual
followed the ridge top for about a mile.
Each side of the road was a significant drop to a canyon floor bottom.
Miles
later the road dropped into a canyon and then climbed over a ridge. There was a turnout presenting a view of the
canyon and of a building down below away from the road that I hadn’t seen when
riding through it.
Entering
the small town of Escalante from the east I noted a quick food place on the
north of 12 but it had a waiting line.
So I decided to continue on the road and noted the Circle D Grill/Café on
the south side. It seemed a little more
appetizing with a patio in the front section….maybe I can get some Mexican food
here. After making a U-Turn and
approaching the front of the Circle D I saw five really nice Harleys parked
there. They were Softails and Dynas and
were polished with gleaming chrome. I
imagined clean looking riders getting off of them and sitting inside. I felt kinda road worn, so I parked Sophia on
the other side of the building in a parking lot where she wouldn’t feel
inferior with all her dust, grime, mud, dull paint and chrome…not to mention
she felt like a pack mule with all the gear I’ve loaded her with.
Walking
up the sidewalk I noticed a couple sitting at a high table. The gentleman’s back was to me and I could
see the lady he was sitting with. She
kinda gave me a slight smile as if to greet me but I looked away towards the
entrance.
The
waitress took me out onto the patio and waltzed me past the group of 6 bikers
to a table next to theirs. As I ws
sitting down I asked, “Are those your Harley’s out front?” After they acknowledged they were indeed
their bikes I replied, “I hate you guys already!” They laughed and I followed up with a
“They’re so clean and shiny and pretty!
My Sophia was embarrassed to be seen next to them!” upon which I gave
them a big grin. We chatted, I ordered,
we chatted a bit more. They were mostly
local and one of the ladies was from both the local area and from Scottsdale
AZ. I don’t think her boyfriend liked
the fact that she was talking with me L.
They
left and I sat there waiting for my order, noting the lady that had given me a
half smile was sitting with her mate at a tall table on the other side of where
the bikers were sitting.
The
sun was shining and it was getting too warm so I repositioned to some tall
tables by the double doorway and sat there with my water and worked my Droid
for messages.
When
I briefly looked around I noted two guys sitting on the other side of the
doorway. One was overweight and the
other was very skinny, wearing loud yellow suspenders.
Skinny
suspenders looks at me and pipes up “Are you a Hell’s Angel??” I ignored him, and he asked me again. So I responded, “No.” then the exchanges
started…the guy wanted to either needle me or seriously entertain himself at
someone else’s expense. Some how he got
onto that bikers clothing styles matched the type of bike they rode and he said,
“Harley guys wear macho leather vests, chaps and boots, crotch rocket guys wear
form fitting leather zip up suits, What would a motor scooter rider wear?”
“Suspenders”,
I replied without skipping a beat.
His
chubby partner almost choked laughing so hard on a mouthful of burger.
Then
the lady that had smiled at me earlier and her guy finished eating, paid their
bill and were walking past me to exit the restaurant and be on their way. OMG! The guy was Steve! The German fella that
had taken photos of me and Snoopy at the vista point! I called to him and apologized to him for not
recognizing him…and I didn’t see the lady during the photo session cuz she was
sitting in the car. Darn! We could’ve had a great lunch together chatting about
his bike riding adventures in Europe!
Can’t believe how much of a ditz I can be sometimes…..okay, most of the
time L.
With
the 1/3 burger safely tucked away in my churn bucket I paid my bill, got back
on Sophia, and continued heading west out of town on UT-12. At the top of the next hill I stopped at
another vista point and there was Steve and his bride. So we got to chat a little after I explained
to Steve’s lady that I hadn’t recognized him.
I took photo’s for them with their camera and thought I had done the
same with mine but I can’t find a photo of them….oops.
Once
back on the road it was steady throttle with no stopping. It’s about 50 miles from Escalante to Bryce and
I need to make it to Caliente, but I failed to notice my trip mileage when
leaving the restaurant. The Google Maps
didn’t show any gas stations at the intersection of UT-12 and Bryce Rd. So my plan was to get gas at the town before
the Bryce Airport. When I entered
Cannonville I tanked up because I couldn’t remember if there was another station
between here and Cedar City where I would stay if there wasn’t enough light to
make it to Caliente NV.
However,
within about 6 miles later I entered Tropic and I remembered that as the last
town before the Bryce Airport. So I got
a little bit of gas there to be the receipt for the SCMA, then headed to the
intersection with the Bryce Rd. When I
got there I decided to go see Bryce after all instead of just heading straight
on to Cedar. And wouldn’t you believe
it…there is a town there with gas stations, etc. I could’ve saved about ½ hour just riding
straight through without stopping at Tropic or Cannonville!
I
made it to the Park entrance and pulled into the parking area for some pics and
saw 4 ladies snapping photos of each other at the Park sign. I asked them if they would like a group photo
taken of them. Bingo! Right
question! While taking it I told them my
fee was that they would have to pose for a photo with me and Snoopy…and they agreed
of course…cuz the mongrel was posing with them J.
The
ladies were all related and were visiting each other while touring Bryce. Doris (FL), Norma (FL), Julia (FL) and Joyce
(IL). They were a hoot cracking
witticisms with me.
From
here I entered the park and headed for Inspiration to get some pics of Snoopy
there. This is quite an awe inspiring
vista with all the hoodoos and colors.
And my camera wouldn’t function!
Not a single photo! What the hell
happened after taking the photos at the park sign??? I was perplexed and frustrated and headed
back down the steps to the parking lot.
And things got worse! As I was
unscrewing the little tripod it broke at the top where it screws into the
camera base. That’s two things….what is
going to be the third??
I
headed out of the park and over to the little town of Bryce and pulled into the
parking lot on top of the hill so I could review the maps and make sure of my
direction. The plan is to continue west
on UT-12 then south on US-89 then west on UT-14 into Cedar. From Cedar, if there is enough light, I’ll
head west on UT-56 into NV where it becomes NV-319 then south on US-93 into
Caliente. Total trip will be about 175
miles…with 75 of it jetting to Cedar City.
Weather is a little cool, but clear.
Cumulus clouds bearing potential rain are north of me. I’ll keep the rain gear on cuz UT-14 climbs
over the mountains and I’m sure it’ll get cold.
With the maps put away, Cedar in the Garmin, I fired Sophia up, headed
out of the parking lot and, with Bryce Canyon in my mirrors, promised myself to
return for a complete tour of this gorgeous area..
US-89
flowed between Bryce Canyon on the East and Dixie Forest/mountains on the
west. Soon I was climbing thru the
densely treed mountains of Dixie Forest, past Duck Creek Village and then
higher up to where it was getting very cold!
My hands were freezing again but I didn’t want to stop. I figured I could handle it for another 15
miles or so until I descended on the other side into warmer air. Despite the cold, I enjoyed this ride on
UT-14. This was another piece of Utah
that one normally doesn’t see, with trees everywhere, no people and no traffic. The road was excellent and if I remember
correctly there were a number of nice curves but only one pair of switchbacks
as I began the descent.
At
Cedar I tanked up again just in case, took a break and drank a coke, and since
it was only 6:30 pm I decided to continue so I called the Shady Inn in Caliente
for a reservation. Garmin got me onto
UT-56 and I settled in Sophia’s comfortable seat for the expected 100 mile
ride. The road took me west towards the
Nevada desert but it was a gentle transition as the trees disappeared but much
shrubbery remained in sight. Darkness
settled in and I still was not at the NV border….I need to get used to the
shorter days and keep tabs on sunset times.
There was one small town on this road, Modena, and it was about 1-2
miles to the south of the highway. In
the very dim light I could vaguely see the dim outlines of small buildings but
only a few lights were on. Either
there’s no one living there or they all hit the sack very early!
The
NV border finally showed up in total darkness…..I decided to make a pit stop at
the roadside turnoff there, on the Nevada side.
I mention this because the whole time traveling there had been no
oncoming cars and none following me. So
what the heck? I should be able to make
a pit stop on the side of the road at night with no one to see, right? Wrong!
Within seconds after beginning my business I heard the sound of a
motorcycle coming from NV. Damn! Then the headlights appeared before I
finished and fortunately I had my bike lights on and the bike shielding me from
view. The riders were a man and woman on
an Electroglide and they waved as they went by.
I did the same to them and, DAMN, the guy stopped and turned
around! Pulling up beside Sophia they
looked over the bike to me and asked if all was ok….”Yep, all’s fine, just had
to make a pit stop,” I replied. They
laughed, turned around, and continued on into Utah. Man….I just seem to have the best of
synchronicity for these things don’t I? But
it was good to know there were some potential good Samaritans out on the night
road. Guess this was the 3rd thing to go wrong today :).
At
the intersection of 319 and 93 I stopped briefly to stretch and then continued riding
the remaining 15 miles to Caliente where I easily found the Shady Inn. The room was nice and clean and they had good
towels. But I couldn’t negotiate a
reduction in their $65 fee. Because of
the late hour I promptly went down the road to a gas station/grease pit and
picked up a grilled chicken sandwich for dinner and headed back to the
motel.
While
eating and sipping I plugged the camera in to recharge the battery; within a
few minutes the orange indicator turned green, i.e., all charged. But still no display. I started just pushing the various buttons on
the back and suddenly it turned on! It
appears that the user has to select using the digital display or putting ones’
eye to the viewfinder. This button
switches between the two. When I was at
Bryce Canyon I must have touched this button and the camera went into
viewfinder mode…..and I never thought of looking into the viewfinder. Guess this old dog can learn new tricks J.
Today
was a long day. Only 300 miles but there
were many stops, sights to see, and photos to take…along with a whizz on dark
nights’ roadside.
C ya mañana,
Gonzo
Twitter:
@GonzoCrossUSA
Cell: 949-433-0761
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