Sunday, September 16, 2012

Chief Joseph/Beartooth Highways

August 22, 2012
Billings MT
(Containing many pics of Beartooth/Chief Joseph)
 
I am writing this well after the ride.  Seems that my notes were not properly saved when I wrote them the night or two after this ride.  So there are a few observations that I had written about that I do not recollect, but hopefully the main ones will be recorded.

The ride out of Buffalo was along the US-16, a scenic highway, through Ten Sleep and into Worland.  Before reaching Ten Sleep there is this really nice ride through the Bighorn National Forest.  It’s a good climbing ride through the mountains and before I knew it I was at the Powder Pass at 9666 feet.  While trying to set up the camera for a self photo, battling the cold wind, I noticed a gentleman coming down of the hill and asked him to take the photo of me.  I believe his name was Hal and he was from traveling from a nearby state wanting to view the Bighorn.

Later, I stopped in Ten Sleep, across from the museum, to remove my wind breaking rain gear, and once again bumped into Hal.  Now, I must confess, that is not his name.  I cannot remember it and, having failed to write it down, I am forced to recall something that I am sure is not correct!

I made a quick pit stop at the museum and then headed off to Worland where I got gas and continued north on US-16 towards Greybull and east on US14 into Cody. 

There was a bit of construction on these roads.  All asphalt had been removed and the ride was on rutted dirt/gravel that was hardpacked in the clay.  On one of these sections my speed was under 10 mph due to the holes, bumps and loose gravel.  But I made my way through it all without dropping Sophia…a nice little accomplishment in my book ! J.

At Cody I took time to have a light McD’s lunch of small hamburger and a coke….no fries.  I filled the tank for insurance and headed north on the WY120 to find WY-296 otherwise known as the Chief Joseph Highway.  I’m guessing it was about a 15-20 mile ride to Joseph’s highway.  But I found it and took the time to snap a self photo.

I loved this ride!  Wow, talk about beautiful mountain ranges, deep gorges, wow wow and wow indeed!  Check out these pics.
 
 






I finally reached the end where Chief Joseph 296 T-bones into the Beartooth US-212. 
 
 
This is the ride that everyone has said is the most awesome ride in the USA.   
 

I stopped somewhere along the road which was level for awhile and took a pic in front of a country store/lodge. Here is an interesting observation about the places around this part of the country. There is no asphalt or concrete driveways/parking. It is all gravel and/or dirt roads. Once you’re off the highway your back into the good ol’ days J. This store claimed to be “Top of the World” but I was to find out later that the road reaches a height of 10,950 feet or so.


The ride seemed to climb and climb. I hit some switchbacks and then my paranoia of falling kicked in. OMG! Many places have no guard rails and the side of the road just drops from little to no shoulder to depths of lost despair. I cannot believe the height of this road as it continues to climb and turn and switchback and scare the living daylights outa me! I’m not quite petrified in the switchbacks but I know Sophia is probably wondering what is it with me on the brake the whole time and why am I choking the hell outa her handle grips!
 
Frankly, I didn’t really enjoy this road too much.  First of all, it was cold, second, it was very windy, third, I was scared crapless over the sheer drop offs on the side of the road….I think I hugged the line between the lanes on every single turn gladly accepting a head-on over riding over the roads edge and finding Dante’s Inferno miles below in the depths of the earth.  I only got to see the beauty of this gorgeous mountainous region when I was able to stop on the side of the road.  Most of the turnouts were not paved (a few were) and I did not want to risk toppling Sophia onto her side again since there were practically no other visitors on the road at this time.  I think that I need to ride this highway one more time to fully enjoy it.  In the pics below you can see how the road clings to the side of peak as it worms its way over the top.  Look for the straight angling lines going from left to right to left up the side of the peak.

I seemed to be at the peak of the road and there was a turnout/walkup to a bit of a higher point that claimed to be a viewpoint.  I really wanted to park the bike and walk up there but was hesitant to do so.  It was then that I noticed and bicyclist straining his way up from the opposite direction.  I shut the engine off and called out to him asking if he wanted to trade bikes J.  He stopped and we chatted a bit.  He is Tom White and is from the local area…pretty cool that at 58 years old he often rides this highway via bicycle.


He told me that this was the highest point but that a little farther on would be where I could see the beartooth. So I pressed on and eventually came to an area that had a steel arm rising out of the side of the cliff and a cable running down the abyss….have no idea what it was.  I only saw a small turn out area but agan, the slope was not to Sophia’s liking and she didn’t want to be parked there.  I slowed and scanned the mountains but couldn’t see anything that was noteworthy…and I really didn’t know what it was that I was looking for as I failed to research this road prior to riding it.  As I passed by the strange bulky steel arm with the descending wires I noticed a solitary peak of a rock jutting straight up between two cliffs.  I have no idea what it was and thought perhaps that was to be the ‘tooth’?  Time was not getting late and I knew that I would be confronted with more switchbacks and cliff hangers on the opposite side as I descended into Red Lodge. Oh, I did hit the Montana/Wyoming border where the US Forestry sign was located.  All this area is completely above the tree line so the scenes are quite barren….like looking upon Mars via the Rover’s eye.  Notice the effect of the wind on the jeans and jacket?
 


The switchbacks came upon me…seems heading down to Red Lodge is a lot steeper and again, I seem to always be on the side of the drop off. Very unsettling….I suspect I am going to be constipated for a week after this ride L.
 


I got into Red Lodge around 7:30 or so, very late for me as I still needed to ride to Billings and find a motel.  Riding through the town I saw numerous motorcycles and their owners walking around.  Seems like a very interesting town, very touristy, expensive.  I must’ve been interesting too as everyone’s heads turned to stare at me and Sophia….we must be quite a site to the locals.  Kinda felt like being a lone rider on a horse slowly drifting out of the mountains and into town, riding slowly and warily with every town’s eye looking at the lone cowboy suspiciously.  That’s the romantic side of me….truth is I know what they’re thinking, “look at that weird bike and all the stuff stacked on it….what the hell is that dude doing???”

I tanked up at a station on the north side of town then boogied north on 212 to get to the I-90 and head east to Billings where I hoped to find an inexpensive motel for the night.  On the way out of town I had to come to a quick stop as a deer came up onto the shoulder.  Upon seeing me stop it turned and headed back into the brush/woods.  Then about a mile later I realized that I had forgot to remove the gas station receipt from the fuel pump!  A U-turn was in order and a 5 mile ride back into to town was lucky to find the receipt still in the pump!

I reached Billings at total dark.  Explorations on prior exits failed to yield a motel so I had to come all the way into town.  The first two motels wanted $120 for a night!  Good grief!  I’m only going to shower and sleep! Well, maybe do another ‘S’….but not at $120 bucks!  Then I found an EconoLodge and we worked a deal that fit my budgetary tastes J.

And they made out cuz I only did 2 S’s…shower and sleep.  Mid-sleep renditions of narrow roads on side of cliffs kept me too tense and unsettled.
C ya mañana,
Gonzo
Twitter: @GonzoCrossUSA
Email: GonzoCrossUSA@gmail.com
Cell: 949-433-0761

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